A Tribute To Boris – Torre Principal, Frey (Bariloche, Argentina)

On a beautiful sunny Saturday, we scored the weather, without even planning it. It was one of those days in Bariloche that you don’t get often. In a place where the climate is ever-changing, the winds roam wild, storm clouds can disturb even the most perfect day… but no, not that day. Saturday before Christmas.

A spontaneous trip to Argentina mostly reasoned on the fact of my dear grandpa Boris passing away and our family gathering in the place where he made his family a home. Beautiful Patagonia. Due to the whole spontaneity factor, my trip was short and therefore very much made the most of my time there.

Frey, Bariloche

Frey is a range of mountains surrounding Laguna Toncek, with multiple Slovenian first ascends. Granite spires in an incomparable setting, free camping, ridiculously friendly locals, beautiful cracks, and an abundance of classic, airy, challenging lines: this is Frey. I have climbed in Frey multiple times over the years, with my mom and my brothers. Easy, 4-hour approach from Bariloche, peaceful place to stay a few days… and climb whatever fits best in our objectives…

Frey, as a climbing area, is divided into two cirques that share a col. Torre Principal is a classic peak to climb. Sitting proudly on the other side of the laguna.

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Originally, we decided to go up to Frey for a few days, make a camp, and climb/potentially jump. As soon as I got to Bariloche I started reaching out to friends, who could connect me to paragliders, jumpers, or anyone who knew about any potential spots in the area. Torre Principal is a no-brainer. I heard rumors about it being jumped, so I wanted to see for myself.

Torre (tower – Spanish) splits into two pillars on the last pitch. One is 6a+ ranked, the other one is 7c+. Our combined skills weren’t enough to get up to the North Tower, of 7c+ ranking, which was unfortunate. That is the tower with an almost 300m vertical wall, where you could do a BASE jump.

Regardless of the jump (that will have to wait for me, next time I’m in Bariloche) we have had an amazing day. It was one of those bluebird, no-wind days in Bariloche that only happen a few times a month. No clouds in the sky, from sunrise to sunset.

My uncle and our family friend Marko came up for the day, we met at the agreed-upon time at the base of the climb and had a fun day climbing Torre Principal while telling each other stories about my grandpa. He will be remembered by many generations, as the most selfless guy on the planet. Always took time to take youngsters big or small to the mountains and share his mountaineering skills, skiing skills, and climbing skills.

It wasn’t until the end of the day, that my uncle made a calculation and came to an interesting realization. It has been almost to the day exactly, 60 years since Boris (my grandfather) first ascended Torre Principal.

The highest peak in the popular Frey area.

Photos by Marko Magister @markomagister from Big Air Factory